How to Improve the Performance of a Fold down Workbench


Fold Down Workbench – Casting about something stronger than a piece of plywood and some adjustable clamps, I find there are several folding work tables on the market from manufacturers such as Word, Black, and Decker, and sold in places like Home Depot, Lowes and Harbor Freight. After researching various offers, I chose a cheap folding work desk from Harbor Freight. After researching various offers, I chose a cheap folding work desk from Harbor Freight. Price is a determining factor. You can see what I finally bought by following the link pinned below in the Resources section below.

Folding Work Desk Comes As a Kit

Important elements have been assembly before. I had to attach two hand crank assemblies to two fiberboard work surfaces, then attach the stiffeners and cross member which also doubles as a tool base. Assembly leaves quickly; I only need to provide a Philips head screwdriver. After seeing the construction of the work desk, I realized that with a little modification, this work desk could be repaired materially. And that’s what prompts me to write the “How to” article to document what I did on my desk.

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There are several areas on the workbench, with a little rework, will improve performance materially and may extend its working life. None of these suggestions is very important, or even necessary for ordinary users. None of these suggestions is complicate to implement. But I find that they might be worth the effort as time goes by. By reversing the way the foot is install (right upside down from the mounting instructions). The handle is now on a bench that is fold, away from the foot, and the legs are really flat.

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I saw that the board was attached to a hand-move head screw that made. The surface board function as a built-in vise, loose, and dropping when the handle vibrated. To overcome this, I use a spanner to tighten the crankshaft connection on a movable work surface so that there are fewer games when the unit is turned on. Don’t get too tight, or the board won’t move at all.

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Each hand crank head screw passes through the end plate which is bent from the leg support metal. If you look closely, you will see that the lead screw plate is secured to the side wall by two metal sheet “ears” and two small dimples on the side wall. It looks like a potential source of downstream failure: nothing prevents the sidewall from separating and lets the crank loose. My repair? Simple: I attach the bolt clamp and lock through the side wall just behind the end plate.



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